Save Stanley Nature Park!

When was the last time you spent some time with nature?  Nature walks are one of the most therapeutic things you can do, great for the mind, the senses, the body and the spirit.

The most beneficial setting is not a park which was “constructed” my man, but one that was left as is, with walking trails carved in by those there before you.  These types of places are becoming harder and harder to find without having to travel some distance outside the city.

Stanley Nature Park is a little piece of therapy in the middle of the suburban sprawl.  Unfortunately, the local school district thinks they may have alternate uses for the land and is attempting to purchase it from the Parks and Recreation Department.  Truly and honestly, I believe this is just another form of injustice to our children and future grandchildren.

We are pushing them further and further away from nature and they are suffering for it.  You can’t get these pieces of nature back, you can’t recreate them elsewhere, they can’t be moved…they will be gone.  It is sad.

If you would like to speak your mind on the topic, please join us this coming Saturday from 5-7 pm at our Roe location (105th and Roe) for a meeting to discuss the plan for the upcoming JCPRD Commissioners public meeting which has been set for February 28th at 6 pm.

Thank you!  We hope to see you this Saturday!

Fairy Gardens

I have been thrilled with the weather so far this year.  Of course, it also gives me an uneasy feeling that we are headed for a major cold snap.  Only time will tell, I guess, but we are well on our way toward spring!  In the meantime, I wanted to introduce another winter project to satisfy your gardening appetite.

Miniature gardens are extremely popular and there is no end in sight.  They are practical, attractive, great conversation pieces and fun to create.  You can use decorations you already have or choose from the rapidly growing collection of fairy garden items that we carry at our Roe and Wornall locations.  These small scale landscapes can be used outdoors as well as in, but we will focus on the indoor style.

The first thing you will need is a pot which will give you quite a bit of surface area to work with.  A wide, but shallow, pot will work best and will be lighter weight if you need to relocate it at some point.  You will need as many plants as your design requires.  Search the entire store for those which suit your vision.  We have terrarium sized plants which work great, herbs work well, or even take a look at the cacti and succulents.  Many have very interesting structures.  Dwarf evergreens add a nice touch but are more suitable for outdoor Fairy Gardens.

Make sure to choose a good quality potting soil to fill your pot.  Tamp the soil to create a stable substrate for your fairy garden materials.  Leave at least an inch of space between the surface and the top of the pot.  Lightly, but thoroughly water your pot at this point and you may want to let it settle for a little while before continuing.

The next task will be to design your garden.  One method that works fairly well is to take a pencil and “draw” your ideas directly onto the bare soil.  This is very easy to adjust as needed and is definitely easier than moving your materials around multiple times.  Once you are happy with your design, you can begin placing your plants and then your “hardscape” materials.  Install your plants first, if possible.  It can get rather messy and you certainly don’t want to get loose soil on your other fairy garden elements.  If you desire a pathway similar to the one above, pin some plastic directly beneath the area.  This will keep your pebbles from sinking into your soil.  Larger pebbles will probably be ok if you are very careful when you water.  

Once all of your plants, house, fences and pathways are in position, you can focus on little details.  There are many items to choose from; wheelbarrows, birdhouses, flower pots, mailboxes, animals etc….  This is where your personality will come into play.  Commit to a theme and you will be very pleased with the results.  The last thing to add is a fairy! Choose one which complements your theme or personality.  Adding a fairy is entirely optional, but can add a nice touch of whimsy.  You may prefer to allow the viewers of your garden use their imagination….it is up to you!  Have fun!

The Garden that is Finished is Dead

Winter Sowing

The cold temperatures keep most of us cooped up for the winter, and this simulated hibernation begins to take it’s toll on us mentally.  Too bad we can’t simply sleep through it! So, as promised, I am providing a few ideas to satisfy the gardening bug when it inevitably bites.  My last entry gave instructions for creating a beautiful terrarium, very suitable for gifts.  Quite possibly you could find a way to turn the following project into a gift, as well!

What is winter sowing?  It is the centuries old practice of germinating seeds outdoors during late fall and winter months, generally within a protected container of some type. Sometimes farmer’s fields are even planted in the winter to allow the crop plants to germinate in their own time, when conditions become favorable.  If you have ever grown plants from seed indoors and have found it somewhat tedious and time consuming, you have to try this method!

Just about any outdoor plant can be winter sown, including annuals, but some will be much more rewarding than others.  So…why not just toss the seed onto the bare soil in the fall?

Wind, birds, insects and rain can all easily disturb or eat the seed which will either be destroyed or carried to an undesirable location.  In addition, many wildflowers do not like to be transplanted, so shifting them to another location is risky and at best will set back their growth progress.  Winter sowing is actually fun (get the kids involved, they will love it!) and very rewarding in the spring when you see your first sprouts emerge inside their snow covered containers.  Let’s get started!

What you will need:  Here is a basic list of supplies (your imagination may expand this list somewhat) and yes, Suburban has everything!

  • SeedsSuburban Lawn & Garden stocks many different varieties of seeds, come and pick our your favorites!
  • Soil – I prefer to use Fertilome Ultimate Potting Mix which comes in a 25 or 50 quart size.  This soil is the perfect consistency for seed starting and has very few sticks or bark pieces.
  • Containers – I will elaborate on the wide range of possibilities, but a general “rule of thumb” is that it should hold about 4 inches of soil and translucent enough to view your thumb through it.  Suburban Lawn & Garden carries 4 inch plastic reusable pots (ideal for this project) which are either used inside a larger covered container or bagged.
  • Spray bottle (optional)
  • Paint pens to label your pots or containers.  Sharpie marker seems like an excellent choice until you go out one day to find all of your labels clean as a whistle.  You can get a paint pen at almost any craft store.

Container choices will vary greatly as there are many scenarios to choose from.  Your needs and availability of space in your yard or patio will play a role in what you choose to use.  Some of the recycled options may be more unsightly than others, so keep your neighbors in mind when deciding what to use and where to place them in your yard.

  • Recycled containers such as milk jugs or soda bottles (toss the lids, cut them in half to sow your seeds, then duct tape them together for their time outdoors)
  • 4 inch plastic pots nestled within an under the bed storage bin or other large translucent container.  Holes will need to be drilled in the lid and base to allow excess moisture to escape.
  • 4 inch plastic pots in a crate which is placed inside a clear plastic bag with ventilation holes.
  • Zip lock baggies also work well, but will need to be handled carefully.  The very tips of the bottom corners are cut to allow drainage and one corner of the bag is left unzipped to allow for ventilation.  The main drawback for this container is that they are not easy to water when needed.

Do not use fiber pots or pellets to winter sow with.  The fiber will wick the moisture out of your soil and the pellet would need to be watered almost daily.  Both are completely unreliable.  There are many other items you can use as containers, if you have an idea, try it!  You would be surprised at the options.  Now that we have everything gathered together, it is time to get started!

The first thing you will want to do is insure everything has ventilation and drainage.  Less is best as far as the ventilation goes, you can always add more if necessary.  I will cover this in more detail a bit later.

Next you will need to fill your pots with 4-5 inches of soil lightly tamping it down, but don’t pack it.  Now you will want to wet your soil with hot water.  Do not use cold water because the soil is far less receptive to it and you will undoubtedly retain dry spots.  The weight of the pot will be a good indicator of the moisture content.  I slowly flood mine (faucet on a small steam) to insure every bit of soil is reached.  Once the pot is drained it is ready for the seeds.  For this part, I usually use a few layers of towels to place under the pots, but you can use plastic or other material to protect your furniture or floor.

Sowing your seeds is very easy.  Note the suggested seed depth within the instructions of your seed packet.   Usually, the smaller the seed, the less soil will be covering them. But this is not always the case.  Sow accordingly and dust with a bit of fresh soil to even out the disturbances.  Mist the surface with water and you are done!

Assemble your containers into their bins or holding areas, insure all of them have proper drainage and ventilation, park them outdoors and then go back inside to your warm and cozy house.  Don’t worry if they become buried in the snow, they will be just fine!

For the initial week or so you will want to monitor for proper humidity inside the containers.  Select a “warm” day above freezing to inspect your handiwork.  If there are large droplets of water on the inside of the container, you may want to add a few more holes for ventilation.  Ideally you want to see a haze of moisture, but not a rain forest.

The only other thing you will be checking on is moisture.  If we are below freezing, there will be no need to do anything.  As the temperatures begin to fluctuate, moisture will be lost and you may have to gently water your little dependents from time to time.  Be careful not to disturb the soil as you water.  Be aware that frozen soil will look dry, so let the weight of the pot help you decide if they need a drink.

Depending on the seeds you selected, you may find seedlings as early as February. The lids of your containers will need to remain in place until the weather warms up a bit, but could be opened if the sun is out and temperatures are above freezing (around 40-50° F).  The first set of leaves you will see are called the seed leaves or cotyledons.  The next set of leaves are considered true leaves and, once those appear, you can begin to transplant into your garden or large pots.  I prefer to let mine grow on inside their pots until they have a few sets of true leaves and a larger root system.

Stop by one of our three locations and pick up a few seed packets, pots and soil and your are ready to sow!  Winter sown plants are hardier and have a  much more extensive root system than those started indoors.  Unless you don’t give them enough fresh air on nice warm days, they will not experience the dreaded damp off, nor will they become leggy.  This really is the easiest way to insure a bumper crop of your favorite flowers. Have fun and don’t forget to get the kids involved!!

Feel free to email me if you have questions, I will be happy to help!

The Garden that is Finished is Dead

Indoor Gardening – Terrariums!

Well, winter is indeed inevitable at this point and before long we will all be building snowmen.  Those who have a passion for gardening might be looking for a little break considering the summer we have had.  But, alas, the itch for green begins to creep back in sometime between now and January.  What to do, what to do??  I have the perfect answer.  Indoor gardening.  Sounds difficult but actually there are many gardening projects you can complete while the ground is covered with snow.

I will cover more subjects in December, but for now I would like to start with the fabulous art of building a terrarium.  Using a tightly closed or open transparent container for growing and displaying plants is a fantastic way to grow many plants which would not generally appreciate our normal home atmosphere.  When set-up properly, these miniature gardens require minimal care.  If you get started now, they can make excellent Christmas gifts!

 

Supplies needed (Suburban Lawn & Garden carries almost everything you will need):

  • Almost any type of clear container (fish bowl, glass jar, etc… thrift stores are a great resource)
  • Drop cloth (so you can be a little messy and have more fun)
  • Long-handled spoon (used to distribute soils and gravel)
  • Scissors (to prune plants prior to planting)
  • Atomizer or Bulb-type sprayer (for watering)
  • Growing medium (clean and sterile peat moss based potting soil preferably)
  • Horticultural charcoal (to keep the soil from becoming sour)
  • Sphagnum sheet moss
  • Clean gravel (fish tank gravel, expanded shale or sterilized pea gravel will work)
  • Plants (insuring light/moisture requirements are the same for each terrarium)
  • Distilled water
  • Decorations (optional)
  • Rain-X rain repellent (optional if your terrarium will be a plant only environment)
  • If you are using a container with a very narrow opening, you may need some long sticks, and one with a wire loop on the end for lowering plants/decorations into the container.

Be sure to ask for Janet or Nancy in our tropicals department for help finding your supplies and for other tips they may have to offer!  Now that you have everything you will need gathered together, it is time to get creative!

If you are opting to use the Rain-X, this will be the first thing you do.  Apply it to the inside of your container as directed by the product instructions.  This is a spray on/wipe off product so use in a very well ventilated area and be sure to wipe all excess off of the jar. Never place animals in a terrarium with Rain-X applied as it can be toxic for them to be near.  

Next you will fill the bottom of the container with a layer of gravel keeping in mind that approximately 1/4 of your container will consist of your base substrates.  A 1/2 inch thick layer of horticultural charcoal will be applied over the gravel.  The next step is optional, but will keep a cleaner looking presentation.  A layer of sphagnum sheet moss is placed over the charcoal layer which will help to keep the soil from mixing into the gravel.  You will need a minimum of 1 1/2 inches of potting soil on top of the sheet moss.

I have provided a list of appropriate plants for this project below.  Be sure to select those which will be well suited in the container you have chosen and can be satisfactory companions (same water and light requirements).  Click in the upper right corner if you would like to view a printable copy to take shopping with you.

When installing your plants, consider the visibility of your terrarium and arrange accordingly.  Before placing them, loosen the soil from their roots.  Make sure the leaves are not touching the sides of the glass, particularly if your container is closed.  The excess moisture collected at the site of contact will cause the leaves to rot.

Don’t forget to water your creation!  The initial watering will be about the same for closed versus open containers,  Quite simply, you will want to moisten the soil (do not cause it to be wet.  Many people prefer to use an atomizer (sprayer) or bulb type sprayer for this task. Keep in mind that your closed containers may be able to go for a few months without adding any water.  This is an excellent time to add decorations if you would like to.  The soil is moist and will easily accept objects.  Replace the lid on your closed terrarium after the foliage has thoroughly dried.

Your little plants in their glass house will need light, of course, but never direct sunlight.  The temperature inside the jar will heat up very quickly and all of your hard work will be destroyed.  Place in indirect light and monitor for plant happiness.  During the first few weeks you will want to check on moisture retention, plant satisfaction and overall cleanliness (smell, etc…).  If everything seems to be set up and in tune, the essential microbes will begin to grow which will complete the cycle of life within your bio-bowl.

Don’t be afraid to have some fun with this project, it should reflect a bit of your personality, particularly if you are giving them as gifts.  Unlike standard houseplants which require frequent attention, terrariums are easy keepers.  Aside from the occasional misting of water, your terrarium will then be fairly self sustaining for quite some time!!  Enjoy!!

The Garden that is Finished is Dead

Chestnuts Roasting…Stoke the Fire!

The fantastic American Chestnut is back?  Well, maybe not just yet…BUT, after more than a half a century of absence, they WILL RETURN to the American landscape, maybe sooner than you think!

Cryphonectria parasitica, better known as Chestnut Blight, was accidentally introduced to our native population of the American Chestnut tree (Castanea dentata) in 1904. The Japanese Chestnut carrying the deadly pathogen was available via mail-order and became quickly distributed across the area.  This fungus works swiftly, using the trees own defenses to essentially girdle itself from the inside.  By the time the tree is dead, the fungus has spread to all surrounding trees.  Amazingly the…

roots remain alive to continue sending up suckers in a desperate attempt to survive.  Unfortunately, by the time the suckers are 10-12 feet high, the fungus has found its way back.  By 1950, in an area stretching from Maine to Alabama, 3.5 billion trees were annihilated. This biological disaster has kept scientists on their toes during the 20th century as they realize how easily a similar situation could occur.  The Oak, which has been found to be susceptible to a similar pathogen, could very easily realize the same fate as the Chestnut.

As one might imagine, attempts at possible reintroduction of this tree seemed futile.  The American Chestnut had been an invaluable resource in early America, providing both hardwood and nut meat.  It has been fairly unanimous that this tree is definitely worth committing some time and energy to.  The USDA designated a few decades of research attempting to cross it with the immune Chinese Chestnut but ceased to fund the program in 1960.  Luckily, an independent researcher by the name of Dr. Arthur Graves had already been conducting his own backcross breeding studies.  The idea was simple, but required much patience.  The process involves cross breeding the Chinese Chestnut with our American Chestnut and continue to backcross until a tree which has the physical qualities of the American Chestnut, but also carries the blight resistant qualities of the Chinese specimen.  Each cross required 6-7 years of growth before it would flower, fruit and could finally be crossed.  Working closely with geneticist, Donald Jones, the first crosses were made in 1930 and we can anticipate full reintroductions of the final prodigy in the very near future…possibly next year. 

The hard work and dedication of a few will hopefully help us bring back this prized tree.  They will almost certainly re-assume their position in the Eastern American landscape as the well-deserved dominant tree of the forest.  While most of us will not live to realize the full maturity of the reforested areas, our children and grand children will benefit greatly.  Maybe, once again, the American Chestnut can be roasted over the open fire, as the song portrays.  Mmm…mmm…good!

 

 The Garden that is Finished is Dead